"A Day in Tajimi"
commentary by Hans O. Karlsson
Tajimi city has just produced a new PR-film - "A Day in Tajimi" that is gaining popularity on YouTube. We have a massive international ceramics festival in autumn this year. What else will you find when you visit?
I have picked some of the scenes that flash by and add background information in this first article of 2020.
I have picked some of the scenes that flash by and add background information in this first article of 2020.
Here below is a list of places and people that appear in the film. Find a scene of interest and click to scroll to the commentary.
the painter
The best way to present Yasunori Kimata, a painter and ceramic wall artist, is no doubt by showing his art. The artist performs live paintings, and here is a time-lapse example. This dragon painting - a common theme in Kimata's work - was done here in Tajimi at Manabi Park. There are several other videos as well as a wealth of artwork to enjoy on the artist's web site.
Kimata graduated from Nagoya Institute of Design (currently Aichi Institute of Design). He began his artistic career at the age of 20, under the name of KAT. He has held exhibitions and live painting performances in various places in Japan and overseas, and has collaborated with multiple other artists.
In the Tajimi PR-film, he appears in front of the Tokurin-in temple in Tajimi.
Kimata graduated from Nagoya Institute of Design (currently Aichi Institute of Design). He began his artistic career at the age of 20, under the name of KAT. He has held exhibitions and live painting performances in various places in Japan and overseas, and has collaborated with multiple other artists.
In the Tajimi PR-film, he appears in front of the Tokurin-in temple in Tajimi.
the temple
The Tokurin-in is a beautiful Buddhist temple in Tajimi. The small temple garden is a lovely, peaceful place overlooked by a Gingko tree. We visited the site last fall with our 360 camera rig and managed to capture a breathtaking scene of yellow leaves from a giant tree completely covering the ground . It is one of the prettiest sights in our virtual tours of Tajimi, which we have performed monthly during the past year.
I particularly remember a tour when a crow Indian living in Arizona joined and was utterly blown away by the scenery. "My God, I wish I could sit here quietly by myself and smoke a Gandalf [style] pipe!" he exclaimed. It was quite a weird and wonderful feeling, guiding a group of one American Indian, a South Asian Indian, and a couple of Americans and Canadians around the temple area in virtual reality.
I particularly remember a tour when a crow Indian living in Arizona joined and was utterly blown away by the scenery. "My God, I wish I could sit here quietly by myself and smoke a Gandalf [style] pipe!" he exclaimed. It was quite a weird and wonderful feeling, guiding a group of one American Indian, a South Asian Indian, and a couple of Americans and Canadians around the temple area in virtual reality.
the museum
“The once-thriving town of Kasahara was facing dire times. The town was close to becoming incorporated into neighboring Tajimi, but people wanted to keep the identity of the tile town alive and try to reinvigorate its industry and community again. Could a museum help with that effort?”
In spite of concerns that the idea of a Mosaic Tile Museum was too far fetched, the museum finally opened its doors and has attracted large crowds ever since. I interviewed one of the most distinguished people in the industry last year. “I think the museum must have come at the right time and in the right shape,” says Masaki Mizuno, the CEO of Ceramesse, a large tile maker in Kasahara. “The design is radical,” he says, “but it is gentle and melds building and nature.”
There are many places around the mountains in Tajimi that have a similar shape, after decades of carving clay from the hillsides. The earth is laid bare on one side but the top still has vegetation. “There is a romantic feel to it,” Mizuno says, smiling. “It is even cute in a way”. Cute, or kawaii in Japanese, is a concept loved by many young Japanese women, and they form a distinct segment of the visitors to the museum. In particular, you will find many enjoying themselves in the DIY workshop corner on the first floor.
In spite of concerns that the idea of a Mosaic Tile Museum was too far fetched, the museum finally opened its doors and has attracted large crowds ever since. I interviewed one of the most distinguished people in the industry last year. “I think the museum must have come at the right time and in the right shape,” says Masaki Mizuno, the CEO of Ceramesse, a large tile maker in Kasahara. “The design is radical,” he says, “but it is gentle and melds building and nature.”
There are many places around the mountains in Tajimi that have a similar shape, after decades of carving clay from the hillsides. The earth is laid bare on one side but the top still has vegetation. “There is a romantic feel to it,” Mizuno says, smiling. “It is even cute in a way”. Cute, or kawaii in Japanese, is a concept loved by many young Japanese women, and they form a distinct segment of the visitors to the museum. In particular, you will find many enjoying themselves in the DIY workshop corner on the first floor.
THe artist
Tomonari Kato lives just a stone's throw from our house up on the hill in the neighboring village Takata. It's quite a steep climb on a very narrow, meandering road. Not even the locals can navigate it safely. Some time ago a small truck fell half-way off and got stuck with two wheels spinning in mid-air. Anybody unfamiliar with the area could easily get lost, but by the time you arrive at Kato's factory, it's easy to tell an artist must be working there. Strange objects sit here and there around the place.
Kato was the winner of the Gold Prize for his work "Topological Formation" in the Ceramics Category at the 11th International Ceramic Competition Mino in 2017. In 2020 this massive Ceramics event will be held again, to celebrate ceramic design and art. People from all over the world will compete for a USD 45,000 Gold Prize, and a multitude of events and exhibitions will take place in the area. There will be something for everyone, and if you ever wanted to go to Japan to enjoy ceramics, this is the time (more information here).
the festival
In 2017 I had the honor to be chosen to appear in the yearly Tajimi Festival where people dress as figures from the past in this area. I was selected to appear as Saitō Dōsan the last time. Saitō Dōsan (斎藤 道三, 1494 – 1556), also known as Saitō Toshimasa (斎藤 利政), was a Japanese samurai during the Sengoku period. This was a time of civil war in Japan when cities burned while warlords fought to gain control over the country. Saitō Dōsan himself died in the Battle of Nagaragawa, Mino Province, fighting his son. I was happy not to have to struggle under the weight of the samurai armour like those many of the other participants wore as we paraded around the city. My dress was quite comfortable and elegant.
It was quite pleasant to walk in the parade, waving at people who cheered me on. Interestingly, many of my fans seemed to be older ladies in their 80s or above. "Here he comes again," one of them shouted when I approached the place where she and a group of other ladies stood. The parade had turned and was on its way back to the city centre. It was a pleasant surprise, indeed to have a fan club waiting for me.
the local delicacy
The Gohei mochi is a centuries old food tradition local to Gifu and a few more prefectures in central Japan. The sweet rice snack has a fascinating story behind it, more about which you can read in a free e-book accompanying this article. We invite you to visit one of three Gohei mochi shops in Tajimi. Perhaps this video will also inspire you to try to make the dessert yourself. If so, you will find a video tutorial and instructions in the piece as well!
the factory
Kasahara is historically the virtual Tile Kingdom of Japan. During its heyday, in the bubble economy of the 80s, massive factories churned out tiles for the construction industry, and people made fortunes — a few successful producers remain, as well as some smaller-scale ones. Maruman Shokai Co., Ltd. is one of them.
Ms Yukari Furuta, CEO of Maruman Shokai Co., Ltd., received us at her factory with a broad smile and a rapid speech. As it turned out her highly skilled workers - she prefers to call them craftswomen - turned out to be equally quick at their tasks. They fit tiny tiles in frames by hand, combining them into a well-balanced design. The frame is removed, but the tiles remain set on a mesh ready for installation on a wall, for example. "The customer places an order with us specifying the colour balance for the pattern," says Furuta, "but our workers set the pattern differently for each mesh on the fly.
We wrote about this and other companies in the local tiles industry offering experiences for visitors. Click to read the article from 2019.
the eel cook
If you have the slightest interest in food and plan to visit Tajimi, a visit to an unagiya - an eel restaurant - is a must. This writer was never a fan of eel before moving here, partly because my mother had always told me it is fatty food. I didn't visit an unagiya even once during my years in Tokyo. But here in Tajimi, I was soon invited to my first treat, and it was an eye-opener. Since then, I have become something of an eel fan. For this article, I had the opportunity to interview Mr Hiroyuki Murate, the chef and owner of Uoseki, one of the most popular eel restaurants among foreign visitors to Tajimi.
the local pub
The Yaburegasa - or "Broken Umbrella" in English translation - is a rustic pub in Tajimi that attracts customers from near and afar. The place has character and a "smell of humans" as the Japanese say.
Unlike what you might think that phrase has a very positive connotation in Japan. What makes a restaurant with a "smell of humans" different from the identical-looking chain stores that crop up everywhere in the Japanese cities, is a sense that it has seen a long parade of clients pass by over the decades. There is a sense that the echoes of their conversation still echoes from the walls. These are places where people meet, talk, laugh and argue. That is the feeling you have when you visit an old-style, rustic Japanese pub, and that is what the Yaburegasa is.
Unlike what you might think that phrase has a very positive connotation in Japan. What makes a restaurant with a "smell of humans" different from the identical-looking chain stores that crop up everywhere in the Japanese cities, is a sense that it has seen a long parade of clients pass by over the decades. There is a sense that the echoes of their conversation still echoes from the walls. These are places where people meet, talk, laugh and argue. That is the feeling you have when you visit an old-style, rustic Japanese pub, and that is what the Yaburegasa is.
Interestingly enough, an increasing number of young people seem drawn to this atmosphere. Perhaps they want to experience a past Japan that was more positive, looking into a bright future. Indeed, there is plenty of Showa era themed attractions around Japan - there is something genuine about this period that even I can sense as a foreigner. The old and scruffy quarters are about the only thing I miss from Tokyo. Unfortunately, they fall victim to the city developers one by one, but here at Yaburegasa I still find that unpretentious atmosphere of old Tokyo.
the kiln
Kobe-gama Pottery was founded in 1804 in Ichinokura town in Tajimi, by first-generation founder Katou Kobe in Mino-no-kuni, who dyed and supplied tableware to high-rank customers, including the lords of the enormous Edo castle in present-day Tokyo. Ryotaro is the son of his 7th successor and a young force for the revival of the Mino region and an increased awareness abroad about this major Japanese pottery tradition. In spite of its impressive history, the kiln is still not well represented abroad and is presently working to establish itself in China, Europe and elsewhere. By contrast, the master potters of the Kobe-gama has played an essential role in bringing foreign ceramic culture to Japan. The late Living National Treasure, Takuo Katō (1917–2005), who was the sixth-generation master ceramicist of the Kobe-Gama Pottery, was the man who first found interest in ancient Persian lusterware ceramics. It’s beautiful blue, and three-colour glazes inspired him to revive the techniques of the Persian potters that had been completely lost after the 17th century.
A 360 degree view of the kiln that appear in the video. This is shot to capture the autumn foliage, however, so use your mouse to turn the view up towards the sky!
This is another place we have documented in 360 photography, and a favourite spot in our guided VR tours. There is a traditional anagama kiln at the Kobe-gama which is fired a few times a year. Events are held here, and in our shot, three ladies dressed in beautiful ancient-style outfits play biwa on a stage in front of the kiln. The biwa (琵琶) is a Japanese short-necked fretted lute, often used in narrative storytelling.
the ceramics school
Ishoken (Tajimi city pottery design and technical center) was established in October 1959. Nakashima Harumi, Director at the school, introduce the school as follows:
"Since the first students mastering the Ishoken training program graduated in March 1960, more than 800 young people have graduated and have been active as ceramists or designers. Tajimi city forms the largest ceramics producing district in Japan with neighbouring towns, Toki and Mizunami. This district is called MINO, and the pottery produced in this area is called "Minoyaki" or MINO ware, which ranges from tableware, tiles for architects, to tea bowls for tea ceremonies, which are represented by "Sino Ware" and "Oribe Ware". The history of the"Minoyaki" goes back in time to the beginning of the 7th century when "Sue Ware" was first made. Since then, the Mino pottery industry has continued over 1300 years to the present day."
"Since the first students mastering the Ishoken training program graduated in March 1960, more than 800 young people have graduated and have been active as ceramists or designers. Tajimi city forms the largest ceramics producing district in Japan with neighbouring towns, Toki and Mizunami. This district is called MINO, and the pottery produced in this area is called "Minoyaki" or MINO ware, which ranges from tableware, tiles for architects, to tea bowls for tea ceremonies, which are represented by "Sino Ware" and "Oribe Ware". The history of the"Minoyaki" goes back in time to the beginning of the 7th century when "Sue Ware" was first made. Since then, the Mino pottery industry has continued over 1300 years to the present day."
In an article from 2019, we interview two graduates from the school. They started their own company - 3rd Ceramics - after graduation and aimed to establish themselves somewhere between the traditional Japanese potters and large scale manufacturing. The vases here above represent their new brand.
the pottery
The film ends with the firing of traditional tea bowls. I have written a series of articles on the pottery tradition in Tajimi. The area is blessed with some of the best clay deposits in Japan, and the ceramics tradition is long and deep. You probably get that feeling from the film as references to this is sprinkled from start to finish. I have covered this in a series of articles titled "The Story of Mino ware". You may be surprised to find that this history is full of drama. The era now regarded as the golden age of Mino ware occurred at the end of the horrendous civil wars in medieval Japan. Some of the pottery remains, and some has been recreated.